winter BROOCH 2012
Works by KATE BARTON, BARBARA BLEWMAN, JANE DODD, ISLE-MARIE ERL, PHILLIPA GEE, CHERYL SILLS, MIA STRAKA & LISA WEST
June 19th to July 15th 2012
To celebrate mid winter solstice Royal has invited some of our best jewellers to make a collection of brooches fit for winter coats. The brooch is an interesting piece/item as it is the only jewellery type that had a function, initially serving the utilitarian purpose of fastening clothing together. As it became more decorated it became both a signifier of social position and symbolic.
The brooch is a significant part of each of these jewellers practice and each has a voice distinct from the others. It has become a collection of opposites, from the literal to symbolic interpretations, from figurative to abstract forms, from 2D to 3D, from semi-precious metals to industrial plastic, and from the monochromatic palette to a celebration of colour. This wide interpretation is one of the elements that make contemporary NZ jewellery dynamic and strong.
'Ripples and Undulations…. These brooches come from a series called ‘Interference Fringes’ -The effect caused by dropping stones in water is some thing like the phenomenon of interference that is observed in light. Each stone sets off a pattern of ripples in ever-widening circles.
1 Undulations Brooch, gold leaf, acetate & sterling silver, $400
2 Ripples Brooch, gold leaf, acetate & sterling silver, $400
'The loss of species and the environment was my concern when making these works, which were originally shown as part of my exhibition BLOODSPORTS.'
3 Weeping Wood Brooch, lignum vitae, pearls & sterling silver, $509
4 Axe #4 Brooch, lignum vitae & sterling silver, $473
5 The Stump/The End Brooch, English bog oak, boxwood & sterling silver, $509
'These brooches are drawn from my ongoing interest in underwater flora and fauna.'
6 Circle Brooch, oxidised sterling silver, $490
7 Pebble Brooch, sterling silver, $290
8 Anemone Brooch, sterling silver, $400
'These pieces are a reminder that even though my garden is a sodden tangle of swampy green at the shortest day, the days get longer from now on and hopefully the flowers will re-emerge in Spring...'
9 Flora Brooch, red acrylic & sterling silver, $1273
10 Flora Brooch, orange & red acrylic & starling silver, $1273
'The hardness of Ebony came as a surprise. It challenged my tools but being able to burnish its surface was a delight. For me Ebony represents strength and endurance, qualities needed during the winter depth of darkness.'
11 Kiakaha Brooch, ebony, fine silver & sterling silver, $220
12 Light Brooch, 1.5mm diamond, ebony, fine silver & sterling silver, $345
13 Matariki Brooch, diamonds, ebony, fine silver & sterling silver, $565
'My current body of work continues to explore the faceted form. The work is processed based and has become a three dimensional form of sketching my ideas. I enjoy these processes; of making; of building and constructing three dimensional objects. The piece has been made in sterling silver with the addition of coloured layers of acrylic that I have laminated and sanded into a simplified faceted form. These forms have been soldered and pinned together to create a conglomerate structure. The colours have been chosen for their reflective qualities, capturing the light and reflecting it as diamonds do.
14 Stone Facet Brooch, sterling silver & laminated acrylic, $370
'These brooches are made as a triptych, one leading to the other in a gradual collapsing of form. The de-structuring process adds an element of chance; with forms folding in on themselves, bending and twisting as they go.'
15 Cycle Brooch, sterling silver, $620
16 Freeflow Brooch, sterling silver partially oxidised, $720
17 Folding Brooch, sterling silver, $650
'These crosshatched and scratched little pieces animate with wear. Hand drawn light-lines send their surfaces scattering.'
18 Moon Brooch, sterling silver, $255
19 Iceberg Brooch, sterling silver, $280
20 Obsidian Brooch, oxidised sterling silver, $280
ROYAL JEWELLERY STUDIO 486 New North Rd, Kingsland, Auckland, NZ Ph 09 8460200
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